Motorcycle Therapy Forum banner
1 - 20 of 52 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My goal is to use the time in the cold of winter to do the majority of my required maintenance. Try to get my bike to where little to no work will need to be done on it until the next winter.
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Vehicle Automotive lighting

Prep work has commenced, and fairings have been removed.

Every year a valve adjustment is needed.

Also on the list this year:
A fork seal replacement
Rear tire replacement
New brake pads all the way around
New chain and sprocket kit

Probably should just go ahead and replace the front tire. But that's up in the air for now.

Just discovered I will need to do a small epoxy fairing crack repair. No biggie there, I have my Ninja hooked on epoxy, and is apparently jonesen for more.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm starting off with the fork seal replacement. Doing so because I'm considering a possibility that there's more than just a leaking seal going on here. If so I may need to order more parts. Before getting started I wanted to check to see if the forks were straight. To do so I need something with a perfectly flat surface to lay across the forks.

Brown Wood Floor Flooring Wall

The best I can come up with, at least with what I have on hand, is this piece of metal that is a part of my MC lift/transmission jack attachment. Problems with it are its not quite wide enough for best accuracy, and can't be relied on as perfectly straight.
On a side note:
I have plenty of Dr.Peppers for the project.


Helmet Automotive lighting Gas Automotive tire Automotive wheel system

I can confirm that this metal is not flat, by placing it on a known flat piece of glass and holding up to a light at the correct angle. I can see the light, so not flat.
On a side note:
I forgot to do some picture editing, so back in a few.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, I'm back.

Motor vehicle Hood Automotive lighting Bumper Automotive tire

The idea here is to place the piece of metal on the forks. With the X's both touching the forks, if the circles on the other side both touch the forks at the same time (all 4 points X's and circles), then the forks are straight.

What I'm getting is with the 2 X's touching the #2 circle will touch with the #1 circle not quite touching. Off by possibly as much as 1/16". Which I would think is pretty significant.

But again, since we know the metal isn't straight itself. What I know so far is, I have been wasting time gathering useless information.😄

I will have to redo this check after the seal replacement is complete. My cheapest way out of this that I can see, as far as getting something with a flat surface, is to get a cheap glass cutter and cut that glass to an acceptable dimension.
 

· Admin of the North
1989 GSXR 1100
Joined
·
423 Posts
OK, I'm back.

View attachment 364
The idea here is to place the piece of metal on the forks. With the X's both touching the forks, if the circles on the other side both touch the forks at the same time (all 4 points X's and circles), then the forks are straight.

What I'm getting is with the 2 X's touching the #2 circle will touch with the #1 circle not quite touching. Off by possibly as much as 1/16". Which I would think is pretty significant.

But again, since we know the metal isn't straight itself. What I know so far is, I have been wasting time gathering useless information.😄

I will have to redo this check after the seal replacement is complete. My cheapest way out of this that I can see, as far as getting something with a flat surface, is to get a cheap glass cutter and cut that glass to an acceptable dimension.
Is the result the same with that piece of metal flipped over?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Do you have a carpenters level? that should be straight enough for your purposes.
No, no carpenters level.
Is the result the same with that piece of metal flipped over?
Basically yes. If I flip it upside down, making the circles and X's reverse sides, the point that doesn't touch becomes the point where the #2 circle originally was. I don't want to flip the metal over to see the "clean" side facing the camera. That would put the side with adhesive that was holding a rubber strip up against the forks. Further interfering with accuracy.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Membranophone Drum Musical instrument Wood Electronic instrument

Got the front wheel and fender off. Got the forks cleaned up a bit for picture day. ;)
I always like cleaning as I go.

I broke the axle bolt loose with the wheel on the ground. Then raised the front end up and secured it. When I went to finish removing the axle I couldn't find the ratchet and hex socket (the one I had in my hand 10 minutes earlier). Took me 15 minutes to locate that. Turns out it was right where I left it. o_O

Just 2 bolts per fork need to be loosened for the forks to drop out. Before I do that I want to locate the tool I will need to remove the fork caps. Last time I used that was about 4 years ago while doing the last fork oil change. I have a place for everything, and everything is in its place. Sometimes I just forget where that place is. 😆
 

· Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've been working on the forks most of the day. Too pooped to post about it now, other than this little discovery.
Wood Line Musical instrument accessory Wood stain Hardwood

Looks like I'm wearin' out the forks.
Area B diameter = 36.96mm
Area A diameter = 36.87mm

The other one looks the same way.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Also showing up:
Hand Automotive lighting Wood Finger Material property

The outer bushings have developed a gap 1.16mm. Along with excessive wear at the gap. This one is from the right-hand side fork, the left one looks similar.

I moved forward with the rebuild, using previously used bushings that looked "acceptable". Although should probably just always replace with new ones on any fork rebuild.

Forks are back on the bike. Everything "seems" to be fine. Seems to be solid with no type of "wiggle freeplay". I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens. Of course if I run into any kind of riding issues, I will have to cease and desist riding. I'm hoping everything will be fine at least for a year. Meanwhile I will decide how to more permanently fix this. New inner fork tubes cost $300 each. Rebuild parts running about $125 for both forks. May end up getting used forks on ebay and rebuilding those, of course that's always a crap shoot.

Back later on details of the rebuild, still getting pictures in order. ;)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Fork Rebuild

I like pictures 😁.

After removing the front wheel and fender.


I loosen the upper triple tree mount bolt.


Then loosen the lower mount bolt. Pull the fork down to where the top of the fork is just above the lower mount. Then retighten the clamp bolt.


Then I take this gear puller.


And position the bolt of the puller on the top center of the fork. With the 2 prongs of the puller grabbing underneath the triple. Then screw down the puller bolt to push the fork cap down far enough to access the retaining ring. Remove the retaining ring and loosen the puller bolt to remove the fork cap. Loosen the lower triple clamp and remove the fork.


Take out the parts from the top of the fork.
A. Spring
B. Washer
C. Spacer
D. Fork cap
E. Retaining ring.
Turn the fork upside down and pump it like a bicycle pump to remove the fork oil.

Should then place the fork in a vice.

I improvised and used a C-clamp. Removed the dust cover between the inner and outer fork.


Took Kawaski part number 57001-1057


Place it on a T-handle (Kawasaki part number 57001-183)


Put the T-handle in the top of the fork to hold the fork cylinder from spinning while loosening the bolt that holds it in place.


Using an allen wrench to remove the bolt that holds the cylinder in place. I'm using a box end wrench for leverage to break this screw loose. It has loctite on it. Once the screw at the base of the fork is removed, remove the fork from the vice.


The cylinder, along with the small spring can then be removed from the top of the fork.





Then removed this retaining ring. Pulled the fork apart by stroking the inner tube hard to the extended position. Did this several times to remove the inner fork.



Once the fork is separated, the cylinder base can come out of the outer fork.


Internal parts:
A. Inner bushing
B. Outer bushing
C. Washer
D. Oil seal
It's now completely disassembled. I removed all remaining fork oil and cleaned it up.

Reassembly:

I put the outer fork back in the vise. Took the cylinder base and placed it on the cylinder. Then put the cylinder into the inner fork. With the inner bushing in place, inserted the inner fork into the outer fork. Took the bolt that goes on the bottom of the outer fork and lightly coated with loctite. There is a replaceable crush washer that goes with this bolt also. With the T-handle cylinder holder in place, I can screw in the bolt at the base of the outer fork with an allen wrench. Then took the new outer bushing and slipped it onto the inner fork and slid it down and as far into place that can be done by hand.


Then I take the old outer bushing, place it on the inner fork and up against the new bushing. With a seal driver tapped the new bushing in place. Then just removed the seal driver and old bushing. Next, the washer went in place. Then the new oil seal, with the outer lip lightly greased and a little fork oil on the inner lip. Used the seal driver to seat the oil seal just deep enough to reveal the groove that holds the retaining clip. Installed the retaining clip. Then installed a new dust seal. Time to come off the vise and stand upright. I need to fill with fork oil. Specs call for the level to be 117mm from the top of the fork (+ or- 2mm), measuring with the long spring removed from the fork and the fork fully compressed.


I made my own dip stick for this. ;)

Top end parts of the fork go back in reverse order of the disassembly. Although there is an O-ring that gets replaced on the fork cap.
 
1 - 20 of 52 Posts
Top